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Sunday 22 October 2017

A walk around Petersfield




I did the Butser Hill Challenge in 2017 with my niece's partner, Martin, and we had lunch afterwards in the Wetherspoon in Petersfield. I thought that the town looked interesting, so a few days later stopped for a little pub crawl after dropping off the girls at Gatwick airport.

I visited the Red Lion (Wetherspoon), The Townhouse (modern), Charles St. Tap (craft bar), The Old Drum (gastro), and Square Brewers (Fullers).  The Fullers pub was the most traditional, while the Wetherspoon offered the best value, but was also the most popular so there was a long queue at the bar. Fullers competes well with Wetherspoon, offering good value food and a good number of cask beers (five), though Wetherspoon has a greater range of breweries and brands to choose from.


Red Lion, Wetherspoon


Red Lion, Wetherspoon
We loved the building. It has been a pub since the 1600s, and in the modernisation Wetherspoons have retained significant character, creating a large and interesting space with cosy nooks and crannies scattered around fireplaces. Sadly, the bar area is small, so on busy days there are long queues, especially for food. And the beer selection is fairly limited for a Wetherspoon pub.

Beer selection and sample tray
The whole building is Grade II listed, from the small attached building, known as The Tap, in Heath Road, which is the oldest part, and is the original pub, through the corner location main building, to the more recent (early 1800s) and larger building by the car park, which has the upper floor bay window.

The Luker brewery and Petersfield's almshouse on the site of
the Red Lion's car park.
Where the pub car park is, there used to be the town's almshouse, and also Luker's brewery. The brewery was taken over by Strong's of Romsey in 1934, who transferred the brewery operation to their own brewery. The building burned down the same year, and the remains were then demolished.

This and the Square Brewery pub are possibly the two best pubs in Petersfield. I think I like the Square Brewery slightly more. It's interesting that both have historic associations with Petersfield's long gone breweries.

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The Townhouse


Townhouse ambiance
Attractive bistro style cafe/bar serving local craft beer. I really liked the ambiance of the place, and that it has a selection of interesting local beers. Seating is mixed - there are high tables and stools, coffee tables, and standard cafe tables. I found it pleasant to sit in the window and gaze out at Petersfield passing by. The window is a bit of a sun trap, however, and I had to reluctantly move further into the cafe to get some shade. 

Townhouse beer selection
Service is relaxed and friendly. I ordered a soup of the day (veggie) and bread for around £7. The bread was very nice - it was grilled, but sadly the soup was watery and inedible. I was hoping a member of staff would ask me if everything was OK so I could mention to them that the soup was watery, but that doesn't seem to be their style. I would expect there had been mistake in making the soup, but rather than going up to the bar and making a complaint, and then working through the alternatives with them, I preferred to simply leave it. The Square Brewery were doing a veggie soup and bread for £5.


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Charles Street Tap


Charles Street Tap

This craft beer bar and kitchen looks and sounds promising, but they present difficulties with their beer dispense system, as the taps are behind the counter, which makes it really hard to see what's on offer. They have a list but that is on a wall behind the bar, and is also small, so I had to stand in front of it to read it. And when I did I was disappointed at how few beers were really "craft". Most beers were simply keg beers from the big breweries, with some beers from smaller traditional breweries who would not think of themselves as being part of the modern American style craft beer movement which is about using off the shelf lab yeast, and filtering and force carbonating for stability. Flack Manor beers were on offer, and while they are small and young, they are a proper traditional brewery.

The Tap range
I wasn't impressed with this place. I would place it bottom of the pubs I visited in Petersfield. It's probably popular with students and trendy types. It is the antithesis of Fuller's Square Brewery. I could imagine that some students would find the Square Brewery too old fashioned.


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The Old Drum


The Old Drum
The Old Drum looked very promising on the outside. A traditional looking old pub that's been around for hundreds of years. On going inside I can see and feel that it's been refurbished into a modern gastro pub. Or, rather, one half is a restaurant, and the other half still retains some awareness of being a pub, though feels more like a modern bar.


Ambiance in the Old Drum
There were four cask beers on offer, plus a cider, so not a bad selection. I had the Andwell 5 Little Fishes, a malty beer.
The bar area is clean and attractive, and this is the place you'd bring your partner for a drink or meal, but you wouldn't come here with your mates for an evening session.

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Plaque on the Old Drum

Oh well, we shouldn't let truth get in the way of a good plaque. Curious, I looked up H. G. Wells. He never lived in Petersfield. His mother was a house maid at a country house 10 miles away, and he went to stay with her briefly when he was 13. He was later a student then a teacher at Midhurst School, about 20 miles away, and then didn't return to the area for the rest of his life, living and writing mainly in London.

I see no scholarly account that puts Wells in that pub (or even the town - though Wells mentions Petersfield Station in his own writings in his account of when his mother was dishonourably discharged from her duties in the country house, and caught the train there), but I see the story that he "regularly dined and wrote" there all over the place - people simply copying the story without bothering to check the facts.

My most likely explanation is that his father (who lived and worked in the area as a gardener long before H. G. was born) might have done some gardening for the pub, and the story got tangled over time. The closest pub connection I can find in the area is that while he was a student teacher at Midhurst School, he lodged next door to the Angel Inn in Midhurst.


Square Brewery


Square Brewery, a Fullers pub
The Square Brewery was my last stop. Bang in the middle of the town, with a view over the square, this is a proper traditional pub serving five cask beers and good value food in a characterful environment. I liked it a lot.

Five pumps (only four showing) 
I had the Red Fox, which was served a little too cold for my taste, not allowing the malt to come through, but was an acceptable Autumn ale.


Ambiance in the Square Brewery
There is a pleasant, laid back and welcoming atmosphere in this well run pub.  I have been looking into the history, and Gales Brewery (which Fullers bought in 2006) took over the Week's Brewery, who owned and brewed at The Square Brewery, which either served as its brewery tap or it was a brewpub, in 1907, closing down the brewery operation. The brewery had been in operation since at least 1739, when it was owned by the Holland family.


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11 comments:

  1. I am doing some historical study of HG Wells' early life, and also came upon the plaque on the Old Drum in Petersfield. I similarly thought it unlikely that he had eaten or written there, unless he had visited his father later (a house was recently for sale that claimed to have been his father's at the turn of the 20th century). I am perversely pleased that you weren't able to find any indication of his presence there either!

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  2. Hi Lisa. I wasn't aware his father, Joseph, had returned to Petersfield. After Joseph married Wells' mother, they lived in Bromley, where Wells was born. Joseph remained in Kent when the mother returned to the country house. He became a professional cricketer for Kent. He retired to Liss, where he died.

    What we know is that he came to the Petersfield area from Kent as a gardener, and there are records of him having worked on some gardens in Petersfield before he went to work at the country house (Uppark) where he met Wells' mother.

    Wisden's gives this account of his life:

    JOSEPH WELLS, who played for Kent in 1862 and 1863, died at Liss, in Hampshire, on October 20th. He was born at Penshurst, in Kent, on July 14th, 1828, and was therefore in his eighty-third year at the time of his death. Scores and Biographies (vii--243) says of him :--" Height 5ft. 8ins., and weight 10st. 7lbs. (or 11st.). Bowls very fast round-armed, with a low delivery ; but did not appear for his county till he was about fourty years of age....As a bat he does not excel, and fields at short-slip." He will always be remembered for his great feat in the match between Kent and Sussex on Box's ground at Brighton in June, 1862, when, in the first innings of Sussex he bowled down the wickets of Dean, Mr. S. Austin Leigh, Ellis and Fillery with consecutive balls. In 1856 he was responsible for the revival of the Bromley C.C., whilst from 1857 to 1869 he was engaged at Chislehurst by the West Kent Club, from 1870 to 1872 by Bickley, Park, and afterwards by Norwich Grammar School. He was the father of H. G. Wells, the famous novelist, and a nephew of Timothy Duke, the noted bat and ball maker of Penshurst.

    It is possible that Joseph retired from Norwich, and came to live in Petersfield before going to live in Liss, and it is possible if that were so that Wells would come visit and take him out to lunch or dinner at the Drum. But why would he then write there?

    I think it's either a mistake, or a fabrication. The plausibility is far fetched. It would need a mention by Wells himself that he dined and wrote there, but that mention is not in his autobiography:

    http://gutenberg.ca/ebooks/wellshg-autobiography/wellshg-autobiography-00-h-dir/wellshg-autobiography-00-h.html

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  3. Exactly - it isn't in the autobiography, and I didn't know that Joseph was even in Petersfield till I saw your post. If you're curious, here's the advert for the house: http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-34654614.html. "Around the turn of the century" would be much too late if he came to Petersfield before going to Uppark.

    I'm not sure what the vetting system is for blue plaques in Petersfield. I certainly would like to know the history of that one. I wonder whether their museum would know more.

    BTW, if you can explain to a non-cricketer Joseph's big accomplishment (taking four wickets with consecutive balls?), I'd be very grateful.

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  4. It's an extremely rare occurrence. It's only ever happened 44 times in the whole history of first class cricket. And that was the very first time it had ever been done. As such, Joseph Wells will remain in the history books as long as cricket is played. As far as I am aware, no bowler in first class cricket has managed five wickets in five balls, though a handful have managed five wickets in six balls.

    To put it into context, bowlers in a first class match will typically throw an average of 60-70 balls before taking a wicket. A strike rate of less than 40 balls a wicket is special, and will put you in the top ten in the world. Getting a wicket is an achievement in itself - it's like scoring a goal. Scoring runs is easy in cricket, it's stopping the runs, and better yet, bowling out the batters, that is hard.

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  5. This explains it well:

    http://www.cricketcountry.com/articles/four-wickets-in-four-balls-a-short-list-545082

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  6. I just looked at that house, and it's in Nyewood, which is a hamlet between Petersfield and Minsted, about six miles from Petersfield itself.

    Joseph did live there from 1887 to 1896 when Wells moved him to Liss.

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    Replies
    1. Hi Steve,
      Nyewood, of course! May 1887 to 1896 is quite awhile. So Wells was laid up at Uppark summer and fall of 1887, and was writing. He didn't return to London till the following year. Back to Uppark for a visit 1890. Back to Uppark the following winter with another hemorrhage, and wrote to Joseph. Then off again. Sarah retired and arrived at Nyewood in 1893. According to Google, Nyewood is an hour's walk from Uppark. So the question is whether he spent much time in Petersfield when recovering at Uppark or visiting his dad from London. Petersfield is the current transit change from London to get to Nyewood or Uppark (that's why I was there), and it might have been the same then. So maybe he did stop for lunch and wrote something now and again? or once? (I've emailed the museum to see if they know too!)

      (I switched to my Google i.d. - it's the same me, lisahistory or llane.)

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    2. He talks about walks in the countryside while convalescing at Uppark, but not about going into Petersfield. My impression is that when he was at Uppark he was in the care of the family there who employed his mother as a servant, so it seems unlikely he would have the money to go dining in Petersfield. If I was extending such courtesy to someone, housing and feeding them for free, and granting them access to my personal library, I would be somewhat perplexed to learn they had been going off by themselves to an inn to have meals.

      He talks in his autobiography of letters that his biographer has. It is possible that in those letters there is some mention of dining at the Drum. I'm not ruling out the possibility of it having happened at least once, but I do find it not very probable given the circumstances.

      I'd love to hear what response you get from the museum.

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    3. He does mention his mother using Petersfield station after she was dismissed from service at Uppark.

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    4. That's funny - yes, it would be hard to imagine the Fetherstonhaughs approving of jaunts to pubs in Petersfield. If by his biographer he means West, he might have accessed letters now in the University of Illinois archives, where I hope to also go in fall. I will indeed let you know what, if anything, I learn from the museum.

      It looks like the system for approving blue plaques anywhere but London is rather...loose.

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